| 1/ Use
8/0 thread with this fly but be careful when tying in the deer hair
in step two as it is very easy to break thin thread when using this
material. Lay a base of thread from the eye of the hook to a point
about one third the way back down the hook shank as shown. Standard
operating procedure for starting off a fly. Now grab your deer hair.
I like to match the colour of the deer hair to the body colour but
this combination works well on the Goulburn so I have used the natural
(un dyed). |
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| 2/ Select
a small bunch of deer hair. They should be short'ish at about an
inch to an inch and a half depending on hook size. Stack the tips
gently in your finger tips or an over-priced commercially available
deer hair stacker! A spent bullet cartridge cut down with a hacksaw
is a perfect substitute. Tie in as shown with deer hair protruding
forward. Pinch the hair onto the top of the hook and start winding
level with the hook point working backwards. Use gentle wraps first
to stop it flaring making the thread bite into the hair as you move
towards the rear of the hook. |
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| 3/ Trim
the excess being very careful to not cut the thread. While we had
to be careful not to break the thread in the previous step, cutting
it is now the potential pitfall. Try and get a nice even cut to
avoid unnecessary bulk although we will be building the body over
it so you have a little lee way. Once this is tied in and trimmed
as shown skip the thread back to the rear of the fly to a point
about level with the hook barb. Because I want a lot of this fly
under the water I wrap back further so that the pheasant tail when
tied in will angle down slightly. |
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| 4/ Select
a bunch of pheasant tail fibres. Three to four is fine and tie them
in as shown. The first turn should be at the very rear of the hook
and you can then wind forward, binding them down with every extra
turn of thread. This should easily be done with a minimal amount
of turns. When this is tied in securely simply trim the excess and
move onto the next step.
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| 5/ Ok
dubbing time. Get some of the dubbing you wish to use. I am deliberately
non-specific about the type as the millions of dubbings out there
are confusing to the new fly tier and it is often assumed that you
cannot tie a fly without material x or y. Well that is garbage. Anything
natural fur will work well. If you want a shaggier fly use a dubbing
with some guard hairs in it or a more delicate fly use a dubbing that
comes from the under fur. In this case I have picked a shaggy dubbing
with plenty of guard hairs. |
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6/ Start
wrapping the dubbed rope of fur up the hook to build the body. Wrapping
in a clockwise direction if viewed from the front of the hook slowly
wrap and tease the fibres with your spare hand until you have the
start of a nice body forming. While this is not difficult I have
broken this step down into two parts.
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| 7/ You
can see here the body starting to take shape. The dubbed rope is not
always perfect from the initial dubbing attempt so play with it as
you wrap and move forward. Thin it out if you need be or add more
where needed. You can even go back and touch up gaps in the body.
As this is a mayfly emerger we want to mimic the tapered shape of
these insects and therefore we want a body that uniformly goes from
thin to thick over the course of moving forward along the hook shank. |
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| 8/ When
you reach the wing we want to add a little bit more dubbing to create
the look of the emerging mayflies thorax. This can be done by adding
a little more dubbing i.e. making the rope thicker or by putting in
more wraps in the same area. This is purely academic and I use both
methods. Once you are pretty happy that what you see looks reasonably
close to this then you can move onto step 9. |
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| 9/ To
whip finish or not to whip finish, that is the question. Well not
really. Its pretty straightforward. If you want to waste $40 on a
whip finisher then go ahead. But the end of a biro or similar such
instrument will work just as well. A couple of half hitches and your
flies will be just as strong. I guarantee the fly will fall apart
long before the knots do. Trout teeth shred flies but they don't have
thumbs and whether you whip finish or half hitch makes no difference.
Just half hitch is the short answer. |
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10/ Here
is the finished fly in all its shaggy glory. Shaggedelic baby! This
is a pattern to imitate mayflies and can be carried in most sizes
and all the major mayfly colours. Tie them sparser if you are fishing
in smooth water to picky fish. The shaggier the better if fishing
in tassie.
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11/ Again
another useful version is the shaggy one tied trimmed off. I would
fish this version shown with confidence when fish are chomping emergers
on the Goulburn and feel equally satisfied to use a larger version
in the same colours on the famous hatch lakes of Tassie's central
highlands.
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