Rusty Tailrace Dun             Click for Full Size image of the Rusty Tailrace Dun

Hook:  Tiemco TMC 100 # 14 - 18

Thread: Brown 8/0

Wing:    Small amount of Hi-Vis in a honey colour

Hackle: Brown or Ginger

Tail: Brown or light coloured Microfibbets

Body: Ginger or Rust coloured Dubbing

1/ Tie in your thread just behind the hook eye. Wind back to a point roughly1/4 to 1/3 along the hook shank and towards the rear of the fly. This is the point at which you will tie in your Hi-Vis wing post. Use the photo to the right to gauge exactly how far to take the thread. Once you are happy with the way it looks proceed to Step 2. Tying the Rusty Tailrace Dun Step 1
2/ Take a small pinch of Honey Hi Vis and tie in. The easiest way to do this is to pick out half as thick a bunch as you want to use but at least double the length eg. two hook shanks in length. Tie it in flat with half extending to the left and half to the right when viewed from above. Then grip the Hi Vis and hold it vertically in place while several horizontal wraps are used as a base to tie the hackle on. Trim the wing to suit. Tying the Rusty Tailrace Dun Step 2
3/ Wind the thread evenly back towards the rear of the fly stopping at a point directly above the barb of the hook. This is where we will tie in the tail. Select a small bunch of Microfibbetts equal in length to the hook shank. Tie in as shown to form a tail and remove the excess tail filament stubs. Go to Step 4. Tying the Rusty Tailrace Dun Step 3
4/ Next up pinch a small amount of dubbing from the packet. Form a slightly tapered rope starting thin and gradually getting thicker. It may take several goes to get the right amount but once you are familiar with the particular hook size you are tying the fly in you should be able to grab the correct amount pretty much first time, every time.  Tying the Rusty Tailrace Dun Step 4
5/ Start winding this rope of dubbing you have constructed forward towards the upright wing you made in Step 2. Generally you will be winding forward each successive turn just to the front of the previous one. However use your judgement and if you have to wind more or less depending on how the tapered body is coming along. Once this is completed wind the thread forward just in front of the wing. Tying the Rusty Tailrace Dun Step 5
6/ Find a good feather from your cape. I would recommend using one from a cape and not a saddle as the tapering of these feathers makes for much nicer parachute style flies. Tie it in at the back of the wing with the shiny side facing slightly towards you and upwards. This will greatly help when winding it in later. Trim the excess Feather stub and bring the thread forward to the hook eye. Tying the Rusty Tailrace Dun Step 6
7/ Once again grab a pinch of dubbing, this time a much smaller one as we are only making a much smaller section than in Step 4. Now this looks different to the way many are used to tying in their parachute patterns and tying off at the front of the fly. I tie mine in horizontally around the base of the wing post and I have yet to find a neater looking or stronger way of doing it. Tying the Rusty Tailrace Dun Step 7
8/ Now wind this dubbed rope back towards the wing. This body should also be tapered as in Step 5 with the thinnest part first getting thicker to match the body size around the wing post. When it looks right, as in the accompanying photo, move onto Step 9. 

 

 Tying the Rusty Tailrace Dun Step 8
9/ We are now ready to wind the parachute style hackle. Being careful not to break the hackle wind it around the wing post in a counter clockwise direction. Use between three and five turns with each successive turn beneath the previous one. When complete take the thread and make three horizontal turns catching the hackle feather and locking it in place. The first over the feather, second under and the third over it again. Tying the Rusty Tailrace Dun Step 9
10/ Take your scissors and remove the excess hackle feather. It is now totally locked in place. Bring the thread forward to the hook eye keeping it on top of the fly. If you want pull it down hard so that it bites into the dubbed body and is obscured. Add a couple of half hitches behind the hook eye or whip finish if you prefer  and Voila! Tying the Rusty Tailrace Dun Step 10
10b/ This is just a photo from above to give you an idea of the amount of hackle required. This is about the perfect amount for most parachute dun ties. Also notice the slightly tapering body just like the real thing.

 

 Tying the Rusty Tailrace Dun Step 10b

The Pattern

The paradun is probably my favourite pattern and is certainly one of the most effective. We use it from seasons beginning to seasons end and find it would produce more fish than any other dry fly. The combination of a highly visible wing and low riding body is highly effective. I would say that it represents various stages of the hatch and is therefore successful more often than a dedicated 'dun', 'emerger' or 'cripple' pattern as the trout can at times unnoticeably switch between these stages of emergence. We have noticed this throughout the years and trout seem to take it from the beginning of the hatch right through until the duns leave the water. It is particularly effective in smaller sizes from #16 down and last year accounted for more 4lb +  fish on the Goulburn than all other patterns put together even nymphs!

* Use only a small amount of Hi-Vis as it is suggestive of the wing and needs the light sparkling through it to be at its best. Too much really negates the effectiveness of this material.

Regards

Antony