| 1/ First
off wrap a nice even base of thread starting from near the front of
the hook and extending to the point where you are going to tie in
your first part of the fly, the tail. This point should be roughly
level with the barb on the hook. Once this is completed and you have
a good bed of thread proceed to step two. |
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| 2/ Take
a small bunch of pheasant tippet fibres and make sure the tips are
aligned. Measure off against the hook shank so that the tippets are
equal to the length of the shank. Tie in and trim any excess. You
should have something as is shown in the accompanying photo. |
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| 3/
Next take a piece of copper wire and secure it to the hook at the
rear of the fly. This wire should be tied in so that it protrudes
out from the rear of the fly and is out of the way of your working
space for constructing the rest of the fly. Once this is done trim
the excess wire and cover with a few well placed turns of thread. |
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| 4/
Next take two pieces of good bushy peacock herl. These should
be tied in extending to the rear of the fly and with the bushiest
side of the feather on the outside. This will allow a good body to
be easily constructed as the wrapping of the herl around the hook
shank will cause it to stand out at right angles to the hook. Trim
the excess and wind the thread forward to a point roughly 1/3 the
shank length short of the hook eye. |
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| 5/ Now
take one of the herl pieces and very carefully wind it forward towards
the thread. Make each successive wrap just to the front of the previous
one to construct a nice plump body. Care must be taken to avoid breaking
the very delicate herl which would mean untying the last step and
replacing the broken herl with new pieces. Once finished, tie off
and trim the excess herl. |
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| 6/ Take
the second piece of herl and wind forward toward the thread. This
time the object is not so much to make each turn in front of the previous
one but more so to avoid crushing the previous herl and also to fill
in any gaps that may be obvious to the tier. Winding it in a gentle
to and fro motion will help you to not squash the herl already in
place. When you reach the thread tie off and trim like in the last
step. |
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| 7/ This
step requires you to select a small ginger/brown cock hackle. This
will be to used to form the palmered hackle body which part of the
reason why this pattern is so deadly. Tie it in angled slightly back
and shiny side of the feather facing forward. Trim any excess hackle
feather stubs and add a couple of turns of thread to strengthen. |
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| 8/ Wind
the hackle back toward the wire at the rear of the fly. Use 4-5 even
turns to get there and when you do use the wire to make 3 tight wraps
around the hackle securing it in place. You can can then remove the
excess feather and begin the ribbing of the pattern. When you
are happy that the feather is secure and won't unravel go to step
9. |
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| 9/ Once
again using 4-5 turns of the wire wind it forward to the front of
the fly. Be careful to not crush the hackle fibres already in place.
This ribbing strengthens the fly and stops the palmered hackle from
coming undone. When you reach the thread take tie off and remove the
excess wire. |
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| 10/
We are nearly finished. Select a good quality hackle feather
from your cape. Either Ginger or Brown, light or dark. I have used
a normal Brown Cock feather here. Tie it angled backwards and with
the dull side towards you. This will assist in getting the hackle
to stand up correctly right from the very first turn. Once this is
tied in trim the excess feather stem and wind the thread forward to
the eye of the hook. |
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| 11/ Lastly
take the hackle feather and carefully wind it forward to the thread.
Make sure each successive turn is just forward of the previous one
just like in Step 5 with the peacock herl. When you are satisfied
with how the fly looks tie off the hackle, trim the excess and apply
a couple of half hitches. |
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This 'Aussie' pattern has been around a long time and works in a wide
variety of situations. It is heavily hackled with a palmered body hackle
which means it sits very high and is almost impossible to sink. Great
to use as an indicator fly or on it's own in rough water, especially on
smaller alpine creeks. The orange pheasant tippets tail is suggestive
of some beetles found dropping into our rivers in summer times but more
importantly can also represent grasshoppers. In very small sizes can be
fished to sippers in calm and spooky back and edge waters and in the larger
sizes can be fished all day in rivers like the Big, Howqua, Nariel, Indi,
Little Snowy etc etc A must have in sizes #12 - 18 it is both simple to
tie and durable. Tie some up and give them a try.