B.M.S.      

Hook: Tiemco TMC 5263# 10 - 12 

Thread: Red 6/0  

Tail: Partridge SLF Hanks Medium Olive

Rib: Silver Wire

Body: Partridge SLF Hanks Medium Olive

Gills: Red 6/0

Bead: Glass or similar bead

1/ Start by threading the bead onto the hook and then placing it into the vice as shown. Then take your thread and wrap a solid base adding a substantial build up of thread behind the bead, securing it at the front of the hook just behind the eye. When completed run the thread to the rear of the hook.
2/ Take a few strands of SLF material and measure it for length against the hook shank. We want the 'tail' to be roughly equal in length to the hook. Tie in so that it sticks out the rear of the fly and then add a couple of wraps for strength. Trim any excess and move right on along.
3/ Now tie in your piece of wire. The original pattern calls for flat or oval silver tinsel if I recall correctly. Don't worry if you don't have any on you as I didn't this afternoon when shooting this sequence. Besides I reckon the wire is better. Secure it in place and trim the excess. Then take a pinch of the SLF and dub it loosely to the thread as shown.
4/ Wind this rope of dubbing forward and around the hook shank creating the underbody and soon to be teased out overbody of the pattern. Of all the patterns we have tied on these pages this is probably the simplest, as long as you make sure that the dubbing is loose. When you reach the bead take a couple of thread wraps to secure.
5/ Now wind the ribbing wire up to the thread running it through the body you just wound on. Pull it pretty tight so that it bites through the dubbing. When you get to the thread tie off and trim the excess wire. Then winding the thread in the same plane build up an area of thread to represent the flaring gills of the baitfish. Add a couple of half hitches and cut the thread away. We are almost done.
6/ Now take your dubbing brush or piece of Velcro and as shown, start messing up the loosely dubbed body. Scratch away and don't be afraid of making a mess as this is what this fly is; a mess. Really get the Velcro into it and rip the fibres away in all directions and on all sides. Gently stroke the teased SLF fibres towards the rear of the hook as you go.
7/ Here you can see the side on view of the completed fly. While it looks bulky and pretty awful as far as colour goes it really slims down and darkens in the water. The teased fibres take on a sought of translucent life like look while the underbody gives the fly its slight bulk. It really is a good imitation of a smelt/minnow when wet.
8/ One more view of the BMS, this time from above. You can see that the fibres pull back quite well to give a streamlined look. This is greatly increased when wet.

The Pattern

The BMS comes from the vice of innovative Victorian flytier Muz Wilson. The name BMS, which is short for Bullen Merri Special, is synonymous with western districts smelt feeders and is now in just about every wet fly box in the state. It is particularly effective on rainbows and seems to work best on those bright sunshine days in our part of the world. Works well in the Pondage Lakes at Eildon, especially in the smaller sizes when cast to a moving fish and retrieved the moment it hits the water. Also a big hit in our private lakes.

Tie a few up and give them a go.